It’s that time of year where Fashion Week is on everyone’s brains. Personally, I think all the flying around the world stuff needs to slow down, so I only check out shows in my little neck of the woods, London.
One of the things I love about slowing down is really watching brands grow at a different pace. We clearly have to start doing things differently in the entire fashion industry, and as folks who love the industry, we (the wearer of clothes) have to change the way we view growth as well.
Investing in smaller brands early and often is the best way forward; saving for a piece or two, going to a sample sale (if it’s accessible), even rooting for them on social media is a great way to connect and support brands. I once wrote to a designer asking if they had any of a very expensive sweater (which was three years old) in stock. They had one and sold it to me for 80% off the retail price. It pays to pay attention and be a fan.
The beautiful thing about sustainability is that there are so many options and a lot of choice.
So, this is simply a list of UK designers who are on my radar because they’re interesting and are doing things differently. A lot of these designers will offer you one-off pieces and made-to-measure clothes (particularly fantastic if you size out of a lot of ready-to-wear). I would say it’s one of the most exciting spaces to be in. So let’s jump in!
Phoebe English
Phoebe English is all about the slower pace of life. The brand has traditionally focused on 'textile craftsmanship and reduced environmental impact'. In recent years, the brand has continued its sustainability mission by: 'exploring less extractive fashion systems with a focus on the design potential for the circularity of textile waste'.
The brand’s website only has a few pieces for sale but do we really need new collections and pieces constantly? Items like their quilted skirt are made with a zero waste cutting pattern and that’s a piece that’s pretty timeless that I could see in my wardrobe for many years.
Eftychia
Eftychia is also a brand moving at a slower pace. The designer focuses on overconsumption in the industry (that’s what I like to see) and is determined to create small collections of 11 to 13 pieces twice a year.
All sustainability aside, I think scaling back is definitely a part of the future we all want, so I applaud brands that are thoughtful about the ways in which they view growth. This attitude forces us to slow down as well and really value and treasure the items being presented to us. It’s a better way of doing things.
Priya Ahluwalia
Priya Ahluwalia is a favourite of mine as well. I first met Ahluwalia back in 2019 and found her delightfully unpretentious and kind. Plus, I was very excited to see a woman of colour really making a name for herself in the upcycling conversation and catching the attention of mainstream fashion - definitely a feat!
Did you know, you can donate your old clothes to Ahluwalia (look for 'Circulate' on the website) to use in future collections? I think that’s pretty neat.
Labrum
I first heard of Labrum when the fabulous Zezi Ifore sat near me at a party wearing a gorgeous purple tie-dye coat. I, of course, had to know who the designer was. It was Labrum and I’ve been captivated ever since.
Foday Dumbuya is a busy man. Whether it’s designing for the Sierre Leone National Sports and the Sierre Leone Official Olympics 2020 kits or doing bespoke tailoring in their East London studio, the British African brand has me captivated and debating whether or not I should finally do a bespoke suit myself.
Robyn Lynch
Robyn Lynch is another brand I enjoy and admire for their unique take on upcycling. On their website you can find Columbia upcycled deadstock garments which have been reworked into trench coats. I hope this designer always keeps upcycling at the core of their designs as they grow.
Patrick McDowell
Patrick McDowell is one of the nicest people, is always lovely to bump into, and always shares good information with others. It’s that giving spirit that I love so much about sustainability spaces.
McDowell’s collections are made entirely with 'reclaimed fabrics and ethically produced materials with a low carbon footprint in mind'. McDowell also offers a service called 'Reimagine' where you bring items you no longer wear to the designer in order for them to be reworked into a new sustainable garment. It’s such an exciting option for those of us who feel sentimental about pieces which perhaps no longer fit, or are from another time in our life.
S.S. Daley
I have a friend who is in love with the S.S. Daley Jacquard Overshirt. It’s one of those pieces that just looks like a perfect fit but additionally they’re made from deadstock fabrics. S.S. Daley also offers one-of-a-kind garments in limited runs which utilise vintage and antique fabrics. It’s made in the UK and no two garments will ever be the same.
